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Front Suspension
Most of this article will be basic, but I will
cover a few points that you normally will not see or be told about anywhere
else. We will start with some basic maintenance. Get out
your service manual. The manual will give you the bolts and nuts of
how to do the basic tear down. Before you start, measure the height of
the fork tube that is above the top of the upper triple clamp and write this
measurement down.
If you have a new bike, have the fork oil
height checked and have any corrections made if needed. If you just
bought a used cycle, get a suspension shop to service the forks and replace
the seals and wipers. If you have a cycle that has over 5 months
riding time on it, have a shop service the forks. Set the clickers to
stock settings. Basic fork oil change should be performed at least every 6
months.
Next, remove the upper and lower triple clamps
and inspect the upper and lower bearings and races for wear or pitting.
Grease and reinstall, or replace, depending on condition. This service
should be performed when you first get the cycle and once a year thereafter.
Reinstall the triple clamps and adjust the tension on the bearings.
Check your service manual for the proper tension.
This next step is VERY IMPORTANT. This
is the PROPER WAY to install forks. ATTENTION – if improperly
installed, the forks can’t work to their full potential. First install
the left fork (left is determined as if you were sitting on the bike) into
the triple clamps. (A little WD 40 sprayed on the fork tubes
will make them slide in easier.) The measurement you took before you
removed the forks will allow you to reinstall the left fork at the proper
height. VERY IMPORTANT – Torque the pinch bolts to factory specs.
Next, install the right fork in the triple clamp at approximately the same
height as the left fork and LIGHTLY tighten ONLY ONE of the pinch bolts.
This next step is CRITICAL –install the axle into the forks, grab the axle
between the left and right fork, and begin rotating the axle. As you
rotate the axle, loosen the pinch bolt on the right fork and move the right
fork up and down until you locate the place where the axle turns most
freely. Now, at this position, torque the pinch bolts to factory
specs. Install the wheel and brakes, and tighten the axle and/or axle
nut. Torque the axle pinch bolts on the LEFT FORK ONLY. Now, you
need to work the forks up and down. The best way is to tie the cycle
down in/on your trailer, or ride the cycle SLOWLY up and down the driveway,
and pump the front brake level several times, making the forks move deep
into the travel. Now you can TORQUE the RIGHT axle pinch bolts.
The last step for the forks is to check race
sag. Most manuals and articles never mention front race sag, but it is
important. With the cycle on a stand and the wheels off the ground,
wrap a piece of duct tape around the brake hose such that the top of the
duct tape is even with the bottom of the brake hose guide. Take the
cycle off the stand, mount the cycle, and bounce up and down while you hold
the front brake. Then sit down with your shoulders over the handlebars
and your hips over the foot pegs. Now, look at the tape on the brake
hose. The bottom of the tape should be between the bottom and the top
of the guide. In this position, you will have the recommended race sag
of 2 to 2 1/2 inches. If the tape is not between the top and bottom of
the guide, changes need to be made. If the bottom of the tape is above
the top of the guide, you need heavier springs. If the bottom of the
tape is below the bottom of the guide, you need softer springs.
Within the three columns we have now covered
the front and back of the cycle. Everything should have been
serviced, and you should have good bearings, proper springs, sags properly
set, and fresh oil. Next month we will learn how to adjust the
suspension to make what you have work the best it can for you. |
